Attractions: A Spring Garden Tour.

Parterre

Historic Garden Week in Virginia began last week.  Known as “America’s largest open house,” proceeds from the house and garden tours go to the restoration and preservation of historic gardens throughout the Commonwealth.  For the voyeur it’s an opportunity to see the interior of some of the most interesting and historic houses in the United States.

We first encountered Garden Week in our pre-winery days, when we had such a thing as free time.  Back in those carefree days we had a house on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, and with friends went on a tour of the places open in on Virginia’s side.  The most notable being Eyre Hall, which has been on the tour every year for many, many years.  The owner has such a tradition of hospitality that anyone who wants to may come visit and stroll through the gardens, which are essentially unchanged since the 18th century.  The property has been in the same family for some 12 generations.  The house itself is open only during Garden Week, and is not to be missed.  Other houses on the tours we made were equally striking.  We are still haunted by the dining room at one house that bathed the visitor in the most amazing shade of coral, and another house had the misfortune of displaying antique China on virtually every surface — and sadly, one piece met its maker during our tour, to the horror of the multitude crowding the room.

There are three tours close to Annefield in Chatham (Sunday, April 21), Martinsville (Wednesday, April 24), and Danville (Thursday, April 25).  By the time this post appears two of the three dates will have passed, but make a note to attend next year.  Since these locations are open during the week, it would be impossible to combine the garden visits with a trip to see us — but then, these are all-day affairs and one would likely not have the time.

Prestwould.  Image courtesy of the Virginia Department of Historic Resources.

Prestwould. Image courtesy of the Virginia Department of Historic Resources.

So — let’s plan our own house and garden tour!  Only this one can be made throughout the season.

Begin with a visit to Prestwould, the magnificent  circa 1797 Georgian mansion of Sir Peyton Skipwith and Jean, Lady Skipwith.  Located just outside of the town of Clarksville, Prestwould is open to the public and is a landmark in garden history, being the creation of Jean, Lady Skipwith, the second wife of Sir Peyton Skipwith, seventh baronet.  Her papers wound up in Williamsburg and provide great insight into 18th century garden history.  Indeed, Prestwould is one of the best documented Antebellum plantations in Virginia, and it has one of the largest collections of slave writings in the nation.  We first wrote about the family in another post a couple of years ago; see that post for background on the Skipwith family (“The Clarksville Lake Country Wine Festival (and an Unrelated Ghostly Tale”).

The Saloon at Prestwould.  Image reproduced from "Virginia's Historic Homes and Gardens", by Chuck Blackley (Voyageur Press, 2009).

The Saloon at Prestwould. Image reproduced from “Virginia’s Historic Homes and Gardens”, by Chuck Blackley (Voyageur Press, 2009).

The house and garden are fascinating, with the house being especially well preserved, though the foundation that has owned the house since 1963 lacks the resources to maintain the garden to the standards of the Virginia Garden Club.  In 1980 the gardens were restored with garden club resources and because of their inability to keep to the garden club’s standards, that organization released them from their obligation some years ago.  Nevertheless, the gardens are definitely worth seeing, as is the house with its amazing collection of early American furniture and decorative arts.

There are several noteworthy examples of French scenic wallpaper at Prestwould.  Pictured here is the Saloon, in which Humbert Skipwith installed a paper called Le Parc Français by the firm Jacquemart et Bérnard in 1831 and 1832 (the invoices survive among the Skipwith papers).  The dining room features another Jacquemart paper, La Chasse de Compégne, a hunting scene first printed in 1814, and the drawing room behind the Saloon (through the door on the left pictured above) is Jean Zuber’s Jardins Français of 1822.  Jacquemart is no longer in business, but the Zuber Company survives, and it possesses the original wood block prints of several of its 19th century scenic wallpapers and can print a set to order.  

Some of the simpler wallpapers at Prestwould have have reproduced by Scalamandre and is still available (do a search for “Prestwould” on the site to find them).  Exploring the house, gardens and grounds with its extensive outbuildings can occupy a good two hours, so plan to arrive early.

Follow your visit to Prestwould with lunch in Clarksville.  There are a number of places to choose from, but a favorite for its commodious shaded terrace is Cooper’s Landing Inn & Traveler’s Tavern in Clarksville’s Historic District.  Cooper’s doesn’t serve lunch on Saturdays, but they do serve brunch on Sundays, from 10 am to 3 pm.   There are a number of other places, but a reliable choice for a casual lunch on Saturdays and Sundays is The Lake House a few blocks east of Cooper’s on Virginia Avenue.

Photograph courtesy of MacCallum More Museum & Gardens

Image courtesy of MacCallum More Museum & Gardens

From there, make your way to Chase City to see the MacCallum More Museum and Gardens, which has evolved into a cultural center featuring a  permanent display of Indian artifacts and other items of local interest, and eclectic forma gardens featuring architectural elements from all over the world that were collected by Lucy Morton Hudgins, the wife of Edward Wren Hudgins, a former Chief Justice of The Virginia Supreme Court of Appeals, and expanded by her son, Commander William Henry Hudgins, in the 1940s, 1960s, and 1970s.  The house and grounds were recently placed on the National Register of Historic Places and the Virginia Landmarks Register.

Conclude your visit with a stop at Annefield and share a bottle of wine with a friend on the terrace overlooking the garden in the back of the house.  Our own garden is coming along — the parterre is filling in nicely, though something happened to the yellow tulips we planted in 2011 (Tulip Monsella) — the squirrels must have consumed them.  We do love the red tulips (Sky High Scarlet) dramatically bobbing above the grey-green foliage of the lavender.  We’ll have to plant more this fall.

We’ve been waiting for the boxwood to gain a bit of mass before bringing some shape to it, and this year the plants are finally touching, so we will prune the boxwood this year.  Traditionally the summer hedging takes place in England on Derby Day at Epsom, which is always the first Saturday in June.  The gardeners picked that day because the Master of the House would otherwise be occupied with the races and not interfere, which makes perfect sense.

Prestwould Plantation, 429 Prestwould Drive, Clarksville, Virginia 23927 (434) 374.8672 (open May through October)

Coopers Landing Inn & Traveler’s Tavern, 801 Virginia Avenue, Clarksville, Virginia 23927 (434) 274.2866 (Sunday Brunch only)

The Lake House, 335 Virginia Avenue, Clarksville, Virginia 23927 (434) 374.4646 (lunch on Saturdays and Sundays)

MacCallum More Museum & Gardens, 603 Hudgins Street, Chase City, Virginia (434) 372.0502 (Gardens open daily 10 am to 5 pm; Museum open Monday through Friday 10 am to 5 pm, Saturdays 10 am to 1 pm.)

Annefield Vineyards, 3200 Sunny Side Road, Saxe, Virginia 23967 (434) 454.6017 (Annefield is open to the public on Saturdays, 11 am to 5 pm, and on Sundays by appointment.)

Parterre

An Italian Idyll.

Firenze

Florence and Venice.  How does one summarize a trip to two of the most fabled places on earth?  You really can’t.  Though the two today are part of a single nation, one needs to remember that through their early history both were independent nations, with wildly different cultures and ways of dealing with the world.

Venice is fascinating for its marriage with the sea.  Its early founders (merchants and traders from the beginning) sought protection from barbarians in the 5th century, and from that the city grew into the decadent, romantic ruin it is now, culminating in the end of the thousand year old republic before Napoleon in 1797.  Florence with its Medici family and their power is similarly complex and marvelous.  There is just too much — it isn’t our place to recount the pageantry and richness of the two, and the head whirls trying to tie it all together.

We tried to find a way to to summarize this journey, and thought of a couple of themes — perhaps a post about the day we saw three versions of David (“the day of three Davids” — Donatello’s of 1408, Andrea del Verrochio’s of 1473/5, and of Michelangelo’s of 1501/4),  Another theme: the refectories of Florence — one could make a day visiting depictions of The Last Supper all over Florence, but commentary on the art and Italy’s rich, varied and complex history doesn’t seem appropriate to this space.

A Last Supper by Girlandhaio

So suffice with snatches of detail — and the food and wine!  We experienced many memorable meals and tried innumerable wines, but in retrospect there is little value in identifying them because most aren’t available in the States.  Very often we enjoyed the house wine, which was more often than not delicious.

Wine Bottles at our Apartment.

A Visit to Tuscany.

A visit to Florence calls for at least a day in the country in the Chianti Classico area. — We spent a day visiting Tuscany.  First, a quintessential Tuscan wine estate, graced with  an 18th century villa in the middle of the Chianti Classico area — Fattoria di Montecchio in San Donato in Poggio, followed by lunch at Tenuta Casanova, an organic farm producing wine, olive oil, truffle oil, balsamic vinegar, essential oils made from lavender and rosemary, honey, sausage, and soap.  The owner guided us through a carefully orchestrated meal — everything on the menu was produced on the farm.  It was a great show and he shipped to the states, so we couldn’t resist ordering a few things.

Library Wines.

Villa

Bottle

About seven and a half miles south of Florence in Chianti is the Florence American Cemetery and Memorial, operated by the American Battle Monuments Commission.  The Cemetery contains the remains of service members who died during the last phase of the Italian campaign during the second World War.  This was an offensive to drive German forces off of the Italian peninsula.  Among the dead is an uncle of ours, so we paused a moment to pay our respects.

Conyers Tombstone

Florence.

n Florence, we were found ourselves in a blessed location, just on the edge of the old city center.  Our group of seven rented apartments in each city.  Our Florence apartment was a wonder, loaded with massive statues, enormous paintings.  Comfortably furnished and surprisingly quiet.  Everything we wanted or needed was within walking distance.

Florence Apartment

Apartment View

One restaurant we visited was around the corner, and one of the best was just downstairs from our apartment.  Il Latini served lusty, simple, hearty Florentine fare family style with great gusto and aplomb (us: “May we see a menu?”  Waiter: “I am your menu!”).  It was great fun.

Il Latini, Via dei Palchetti 6/r (Palazzo Rucellai) – 50123 – Firenze – tel. (+39) 055 210916

Another restaurant just downstairs from the apartment proved to be a wonder, with the most innovative and imaginative plating and presentation.  We ate there our last day, and loved it.

Trattoria I Parione, Via del Parione, 74 / 76 r – Via della Vigna Nuova, 17 – 50123 – Firenze - tel. (+39) 055 214005

Yet another star was a place that has a branch in Washington, DC, called Acqua al 2.

Acqua al 2, Via della Vigna Vecchia, 40/R, 50122 – Firenze - tel. (+39) 055 284170

A couple of us ventured out on our own while others went shopping.  It wasn’t time for panic sight-seeing, but almost — we had made it over to see Santa Croce, the final resting place of Galileo and Michelangelo, but it was lunch time and our group caught a cab and joined us at this place.  Santa Croce was interesting for its flood markers that showed the level of the cataclysmic floods that have struck the city over the centuries.  The worst in modern times (November of 1966) had water levels of 20 feet above normal at Santa Croce.

Ristorante la Maremma, Via Verdi 16/r – Firenze – tel. (+039) 055 244615

Another night, a restaurant on the opposite bank of the Arno, overlooking the Ponte Vecchio.

Golden View, Via dei Bardi 58/R, (Ponte Vecchio) – Firenze – tel. (+039) 055 214502

View from the Duomo

Glass Shop

Drinks at Il Latini

Gates of Paradise

Waxworks

Pontormo Deposition

Duomo Dome

Ponte Vecchio

Venice and the Veneto.

Venice is just two hours away from Florence by train.  Our first afternoon in Venice took us to the Fortuny factory on Guidecca for a visit to the showroom and a tour of the garden, but the factory itself is off-limits, because Fortuny’s methods are top secret.  A necessity so they can charge 350 Euro per yard for fabric, which is admittedly the most luxurious imaginable.

Villa La Rotonda

Our first full day in the Veneto called for a day trip to Padua and Vicenza, just minutes outside of Venice by train.  We wanted to visit the Giotto’s landmark (an astounding) Scrovegni Chapel in Padua and make a pilgrimage to the Villa La Rotonda in Vicenza, a landmark of world architecture and an inspiration to our own Thomas Jefferson in the building of his Monticello.  Its a majestic yet strangely impractical composition, very much like Jefferson’s Poplar Forest in plan.

In Venice we selected an area little visited by tourists, so it was less congested yet convenient to the rest of the city.  It was a five minute walk to the closest vaparetto stop.  With a good map and a little patience, you could walk anywhere.  We were amused to see that every restaurant in Venice had a business card that included a map showing how to find them — a true necessity in that city.

One night we found ourselves at this quirky little place near the Piazza San Marco.

Enoiteca Mascareta, Calle Lunga S. Maria Formosa, 5183, 30122 Venezia tel. (+039) 041 5230744

And Friday night we planned our most elaborate dinner, since some of our guests had to go on Saturday.  Just off Campo San Polo one finds Ristorante Osteria da Fiore, one of the best regarded restaurants in the city.  Our most decadent evening, with a seven course tasting menu.  We had a different wine with each course (our choice being the sommelier’s choice).  A spectacular evening in a restaurant listed among the best in the world by master chef and reviewer Patricia Wells, and one of only two restaurants in Venice recognized by the Guide Michelin (the other, Met, has two stars and Da Fiore one, but Da Fiore is higher rated by Zagat – pick your poison).  One of the members of our party was a vegetarian who could not eat dairy; we called ahead to warn them, and they handled the request with aplomb and good grace.

Soft Shell Crab at Osteria da Fiore

Ristorante Osteria da Fiore, S. Polo – Calle del Scaleter 2202/A, 30125 Venezia – tel. (+39) 041 721308

The walk home proved amusing with a late occurrence of Acqua Alta — the notorious high water caused by an exceptionally high tide, occurring with distressingly increased frequency.  Portions of the sidewalk on the walk back to the apartment were submerged in a foot of water.  It happened again the next night, and we heard the warning sirens alerting the populace.  Fortunately that night we were at an Osteria just steps from our apartment, the Osteria da Codroma.  This restaurant served only traditional Venetian specialties (in this instance, all seafood).  Truly a neighborhood gem.

Osteria da Codroma, Dorsoduro 2540, Fondamenta Briati 30123 Venezia – tel. (+39) 041 5246789

Lunches were a mixed affair — sometimes a pizza on one of the numerous campos (there is only one piazza in Venice), a favorite being one on the Campo Santa Margarita, the largest near our apartment.  Another was on Campo San Polo, but the most memorable was A Beccafico on Campo S. Stefano.

A Beccafico, Campo S. Stefano, 2801, 30124 Venizia – tel. (+39) 038 18810271

Here’s a tip: the TripAdvisor app for iPhone proved invaluable, providing the ability to instantly find nearby restaurants and capsule reviews.  It has an invaluable directional feature with a single large arrow to show you that you are going in the right direction — an invaluable feature in a place like Venice.  Note that TripAdvisor has specific city guides, but not all restaurants in the main app are in the individual city guides.

View of the Grand Canal

Piazza San Marco

Enjoying Aperol in Campo Santa Margarita

Canal View

And Finally –

When we originally booked our departure we took into account the time it would take to travel from the city to the airport, so we booked a later flight.  That flight was canceled, and we were put on one departing at 6:45 am, which would necessitate leaving around 3 am.  Not a pretty prospect, so after a minor freak-out we found a hotel close to the airport and spent the last night there.  It was not even five minutes to the terminal, and a humane way to end the trip.

A restaurant within walking distance from there proved to be an incredible find, and provided one of our most interesting meals, and throwback to the lusty meat-fest of the simpler Florentine restaurants. So if you find yourself spending the night near the Marco Polo Airport, you must seek out Ai-Do Fogheri.

Ai-Do Fogheri, Via Trienstina, 138, Tessera, VE tel- (+39) 041 5416107

In conclusion, one could spend a lifetime in either place learning its finer points and mysteries.  We don’t include here everything we saw; omission does more justice than trying to include it all.  It feels like we only brushed the surface, and we’re anxious to return.  There were a lot of churches we didn’t get to, and one must see the art in situ to truly appreciate it.

IMG_2375
Appetizer of Mussels
Florentine Steak

Attractions: The Boyd Tavern.

The Boyd Tavern.

The Boyd Tavern, Boydton, Virginia.

The villages and towns scattered through Southern Virginia are neat little hamlets.  The best are the county seats, because they retain some semblance of vitality because of economic activity by virtue of the presence of the government.  One of many worth seeing is Boydton, the county seat of Mecklenburg County, just 26 miles southeast of Annefield.

The original tavern dates from 1790, and is believed to have been built by Alexander Boyd (1747-1801), though the structure may have been built by the land’s prior owner, Richard Swepson. It is known to have consisted of a small one-story dwelling and tavern. Sometime around 1816, the building was expanded, and by the 1820s, the building had evolved into the then-popular Federal style.  In the mid-nineteenth century (likely before the War Between the States), the owners modernized the tavern and embarked on another expansion in the Italianate style.  These changes are attributed to Jacob W. Holt, the housewright believed responsible for building the house at Annefield.  Both houses bear hallmarks of his style, as does the nearby antebellum Baskerville house, Eureka, an extensively documented Holt-built house.

Eureka, Mecklenburg County, Virginia.  Image courtesy of the Virginia Department of Historic Resources.

Eureka, Mecklenburg County, Virginia. Image courtesy of the Virginia Department of Historic Resources.

The tavern has been an essential part of the history of the surrounding community, and has been a prominent landmark for over 200 years.  In 1976 the Boyd Tavern was placed on the Virginia Landmarks Register and the National Register of Historic Places.  Much of the information below was gleaned from the National Register application and the website of the Boyd Family Foundation.

The tavern was sold by the Boyd family in 1824.  A great-granddaughter of Alexander Boyd, Sarah Anderson Boyd (1822-1882), married on 14 February 1839 Hillery M.L. Goode, the man who commissioned Annefield.  It’s possible that this familial connection (with the Boyds residing in Boydton) resulted in Holt obtaining the commission to build Annefield.

Alexander Boyd and the Boyd Tavern.

Alexander Boyd (commonly referred to as “the Elder” to distinguish him from his son of the same name) is known to have immigrated to the Colony of Virginia in 1764.  He married Anne Swepson, the daughter of Richard Swepson, and had eleven children.  Boyd opened a mercantile store from the tavern in 1787, when he was granted a merchant’s license in March of that year.

The land on which the government buildings then existing (the courthouse and the prison) belonged to Richard Swepson, who deeded the land to his son Richard, who in turn conveyed it to his brother-in-law Alexander Boyd, for 1000 pounds in 1794.  This purchase included the 480 acres that held the courthouse and tavern.  That same year Alexander the Elder was appointed Commissioner of the Peace by Governor Henry Lee, then was appointed Commissioner and Justice of the Courts for Mecklenburg County.  Not having time to manage his other businesses, he turned that responsibility over to his sons Richard and Alexander.  Richard was granted a license to keep an ordinary in 1796.

On 11 August 1801, Alexander Boyd the Elder died unexpectedly while presiding in the courthouse, and was buried across the street from the tavern.  His tombstone is quite a memorial:

Sacred
to the memory of
Alexander Boyd
a native of Scotland
who suddenly departed this life
in the Courthouse of this County
while on the seat of justice
in discharge of his duty as a magistrate
August the 11th 1801
in the 54th year of his age
’twas on the bench ‘pon a court day

No doubt you’ll read with sorrow
For I was dead before the night
Prepare my friends to follow.
Farewell my children and my wife
Contented may you be
May you obtain eternal life
And safe be lodged with me
God send his soul to rest
They loved him most who knew him best

On the division of his father’s property in 1803, Alexander Boyd, the Younger, received the courthouse tract of 480 acres containing the tavern in which he and his brother Richard continued to operate.  The Boyd family effectively had a monopoly over the town because of his ownership of the courthouse tract.  This did not sit well with the townspeople and especially the county clerk, William Baskerville, who petitioned the General Assembly to establish a town on Boyd’s land.  In 1811 Alexander Boyd deeded the courthouse tract to the county, though he petitioned the legislature complaining of the “wanton confiscation” of his property and the monetary loss he suffered.  He wrote:

As our opponents have not condescended to my mention what particular comforts and convenience they have found it impracticable to obtain at the courthouse, it only remains for your petitioners in this respect to show they might have had and can still have upon as reasonable as any Court House in Virginia a table amply supplied with all the meats raised in this part of the Country and a cellar furnished with the liquors of Europe, Africa, and America, and a tavern of nearly 150 feet in length with fourteen rooms and twelve fire places for their accommodations, with stables as good as any in the state, and your petitioners firmly believe that the most of those who complain of the fare at the Court House find as good there in all respects as they leave at home.

 Boyd also acknowledged that the location was “a place admitted to be convenient and central, where the chief of the public expenses are already incurred and paid for, where the necessary bridges are in use, and where the public occassions are amply provided for as at any Court House in the Commonwealth”   In the petition Boyd offered to divide his property and lay out the town, as suggested by Baskerville two years earlier.

“Boyd Town” was established in 1812, after the General Assembly passed an act making it the county seat.  Fifty acres “lying immediately around the Courthouse”was to be the town site.  Boyd laid out forty acres in lots, which included the streets, and ten acres for himself.

The tavern was acquired and restored by the Boyd Family Foundation in 1976.  The Boyd Tavern is open for tours, Wednesday through Saturday, 9 am to 3 pm, and Sunday, 1 pm to 4 pm.  The tour fee is $5./person.  For more information contact Will Ober at willober@comcast.net or call (434) 738.9800 and leave a message to schedule a tour.  A walking tour of the town is available here.

Side View of Porches.

Click “View Larger Map” below for directions from Annefield.

Was Everybody a Colonel? A Visit to Do Well Plantation.

Do Well.

Do Well, Saxe, Virginia. Image Courtesy of Hill Studio, P.C.

Sometimes when you visit these old houses in Southside Virginia you scare up a passel of ghosts.  The long-dead former owners often linger in the shadows.  One such place that lives between two worlds — where a rich and fascinating past mingles with a compelling present — stands on the road midway between the villages of Saxe and Drake’s Branch.  With any luck the passersby can catch a tantalizing glimpse through the trees in winter of an imposing Federal-style house on a one thousand acre plantation called Do-Well.  We had the pleasure of dining there the other night.

The house dates from the early 1800s, probably sometime around 1820.  Some researchers place the date as early as 1810, though a study of the land tax records may reveal the appropriate date, because one can tell when substantial improvements have been made to a property because the assessment changes dramatically from one year to the next.  The house was built for William Morton Watkins (1773-1865), the son of Colonel Joel Watkins (1737-1820).  The National Register application for Henry A. Watkins’ house on a plantation called Woodfork, states that it is unclear whether William had built Do Well or his brother Henry, suggesting they collaborated.

Do Well is of similar design as Woodfork — both are large two and a half story, five-bay brick structures (Do Well has four finished levels), with Flemish bond on the façade and 3 and 4-course American bond on the sides and rear.  It features a Georgian floor plan with identical front and rear porticos (a road side and a river side) and a massive center passage.  The interior and exterior woodwork are similar, featuring Adam-style details and  very fine finishes.  An Historic Architectural Survey of Charlotte County, Virginia completed in 1998 notes that “The Adamesque swags and urns embellishing the mantel at Do Well, built ca. 1821-1822 by William M. Watkins, are the finest example of the Federal style found in Charlotte County.”

Mantel at Do Well.  Image Courtesy of Hill Studio, P.C.

Mantel at Do Well. Image Courtesy of Hill Studio, P.C.

Colonel Joel Watkins of Woodfork.

Colonel Joel Watkins was born about 1737 in Henrico County, and he died 2 January 1820 in Charlotte County.  According to an early chronicler of the family, Francis N. Watkins (A Catalogue of the Descendants of Thomas Watkins of Chickahominy, VA. Who was the Common Ancestor of Many of the Families of the Name in Prince Edward, Charlotte, and Chesterfield Counties, VA.”  (Written 1852) Prince Edward County, VA.” 1899 Atlas Printing Company, Henderson, SC):

JOEL WATKINS of Woodfork, Charlotte, was the third son of Thomas of Chickahominy, and probably was younger than one or more of his sisters. He removed from Henrico to Charlotte when a young man, at the persuasion of his brother-in-law, Col. William MORTON, herein often mentioned. He married AGNES MORTON, sister of Colonel Morton. His residence was a few miles north of Charlotte C(ourt) H(ouse), at Woodfork. He died about the year—-. Few men appear to have been more beloved than this excellent old man. “I never knew him,” said Mr. Leigh, “and I am very sorry for it, for, according to my information, he was the very best man that ever lived in this world.”

He was remarkable, says another who knew him well, “for plainness, benevolence, and integrity, a pattern of industry, one of the kindest of friends—the friend of the friendless, one who comforted the widow in affliction, the father to the orphan, a friend to the poor, the adviser of youth, without an enemy, and his death mourned by all.” *** “He would court the company of youth.” *** “I have heard him compared to the father of his country.”

Another styled him the “great peacemaker.” There was one virtue for which he and his brother Francis were noted, and which deserves mention, I refer to their purity of character as exhibited by a cordial disgust at hearing vulgar and unchaste conversation. Their kindness and politeness might sometimes prevent apparent rudeness to the retailers of such remarks but they gave no sign of encouragement to the conversation; and Col. Joel Watkins would start off to light his pipe.

Among the papers of the Hon. John RANDOLPH was found a MS written by himself, of which the following is a copy:

“On Sunday, the 2nd day of January, departed this life, at an advanced age, beloved, honored and lamented by all who knew him, Col Joel Watkins, of the county of Charlotte and State of Virginia.

Without shining abilities or the advantages of an education, by plain, straightforward industry, under the guidance of old-fashioned honesty and practical good sense, he accumulated an ample fortune, in which, it is firmly believed, and there was not one dirty shilling.

These fruits of his own labors he distributed with a promptitude and liberality seldom equaled, but never surpassed, in suitable provision to his children at their entrance into life, and on every deserving object of private benevolence or public spirit; reserving to himself the means of a generous but unostentatious hospitality.

Nor was he liberal of his money only. His time, his trouble were never withheld on the bench or in his neighborhood, when they could be usefully employed.

If, as we are assured, that peacemakers are blessed, who shall feel stronger assurance of bliss, than must have smoothed this old man’s passage to an unknown world.”

Joel served in the Revolution as a Lieutenant Colonel in the regiment raised by Colonel Thomas Read in 1781 and witnessed Cornwallis’ surrender at Yorktown with his brother-in-law, William Jameson of Annefield.  Joel married Agnes Morton (1747-1814), the daughter of Joseph Morton and Agnes Woodson.  They produced six children: Mary, Susannah, Hunt, Henry Anderson, William Morton and Jane.  Joel lived in a modest frame dwelling at Woodfork; it was his son Henry that built the large brick house in 1829.

William Morton Watkins of Do Well.

Like his father Joel and brother Henry, William Morton Watkins (1773-1865)  served as a member of the House of Delegates and as trustee of Hampden-Sydney College.   In 1799, William married Elizabeth Woodson Venable, the daughter of Col. Samuel Woodson Venable and Mary Scott Carrington on 6 December 1799.   Mr Watkins studied at Hampden-Sydney College from 1789 to 1791, received his A.B. from Princeton in 1792, and studied law under Judge Creed Taylor of Cumberland County, Virginia.  He represented Charlotte County in the Virginia House of Delegates from 1812-1815, and in 1830 became a trustee of Hampden-Sydney College and served in that capacity for 30 years.

Elizabeth Woodson Venable was born 11 May 1782 in Prince Edward County and died 7 April 1858 in Charlotte County.  She was a great-granddaughter of Colonel Clement Read of Bushy Forest, one of the earliest (and wealthiest) settlers in Charlotte County.  William’s sister, Jane Watkins (1774-1839) married Colonel Clement Carrington, the son of Judge Paul Carrington and Margaret Read of Mulberry Hill; Margaret was Clement Read’s daughter and the sister of Anne Read of Annefield.  Funny how all these lines of descent get all jumbled together and ultimately converge.  We wrote of the life of Paul Carrington in another post, Here Comes the Judge!

William and Elizabeth produced 11 children, one of which was Jane Virginia Watkins (1829-1863), who married Richard Venable Gaines on 27 November 1854.  They had four children.

One of their children, Elizabeth Venable Gaines, was one of the first women in the county to obtain a PhD.  Some of her papers are housed at the Library of Virginia.  She began her education with private tutors, then attended the Richmond Female Seminary.   At age 22, she removed to Frankfort, Kentucky at served as governess for an uncle’s family there, then ran a girls school.  She attended Vassar College, then taught for three years at the State Normal School in Farmville (now Longwood University), before entering the Massachusetts Institute of Technology in 1892.  After finishing her studies at MIT, Ms Gaines taught at Adelphi College in Brooklyn, New York, where she headed the Biology department for 22 years while simultaneously continuing her own education in the sciences, philosophy and the arts at the University of Chicago, Columbia University and Cornell University.  She returned to Do Well in 1916, and became a leader in historic preservation and the study of local history.

She died 16 April 1942 in Farmville, and is buried in the family cemetery at Do Well, along with her parents and grandparents and several siblings, including her brother Clement Carrington Gaines (1857-1943), an 1875 graduate of Hampden-Sydney College, who was president of Eastman Business College in Poughkeepsie, New York in 1894.

Watkins-Gaines Family Cemetery, Saxe, Virginia.

Watkins-Gaines Family Cemetery, Saxe, Virginia.

Jane must have inherited Do Well, for we find mention of it and her husband, Richard Venable Gaines in a scholarly study of his era.  Amy Feely Morsman, in The Big House After Slavery: Virginia Families and their Postbellum Domestic Experiment (Charlottesville: University of Virginia Press, 2010) notes that in 1885 , feeling the pain and disappointment of adverse financial affairs and being unable to send his son Dick the $100 he had requested, Richard Gaines wrote that he intended to “settle up” with Dick by conveying to him on his 18th birthday the family property he was always intended to have (Do Well), but found it “deeply painful and humiliating” because he had hoped to give Richard more, but land values were low in Virginia at the time.  Substantial Gaines family correspondence is preserved at the University of Virginia (“Papers, correspondence and records of the Gaines family of “Do Well” [manuscript] 1810-1905“).

Jane Virginia Watkins Gaines died relatively young at age 34.  On 6 July 1866, Richard Venable Gaines married Jane’s sister, Elizabeth Margaret Watkins (1827-1896); they had no children.

Richard fought on the side of the Confederacy during the War Between the States.  He enlisted a Sergeant in Charles Bruce’s Company of Virginia Artillery, and mustered out a 2nd Lieutenant with Capt. Andrew B. Paris’ Staunton Hill Light Artillery.  After the war he returned to farming, and did his part to promote and increase the value of land in Charlotte County; he was the author of a Hand-book of Charlotte County, Virginia : its history, physical characteristics, climatic conditions, social, moral and religious advantages, statistical and other information, with letters from prominent citizens showing its desirability as a home, and the inducements which it offers to the industrious and intelligent farmer and mechanic (1889).

We have not established when the property left the Gaines family, but by the 1950s it was owned by the Stanley Land and Lumber Company, then purchased by the present owner in 1959.  With that, we’ll leave Do Well and its’ ghosts in peace.

Center Passage Detail.

Center Passage Detail.